5/30/14

I have to be honest.  I had never given Portugal a lot of thought as a travel destination. I knew it was next to Spain and  Port Wine was from there.  But I just didn't consider Portugal as much as its more "vocal" European counterparts - England, France, Italy, Germany and the like.

Fortunately for my husband Pat and I, some very good friends moved to Portugal for an ex-pat year and as they are some of the best traveled folks we know, we figured if  they were crazy about Portugal we would be also.

Our wonderful, generous and gorgeous friends Mark and Andi, played hosts to us for the first week of our trip.  We knew it was going to be great when we were picked up at the airport and went straight to one of Mark's favorite seafood joints in Lisbon - Romero's.




Dish after dish arrived at the table - smokily grilled Langostinos, succulent rock shrimp lolling in a butter-garlic bath and juicy BARNACLES!  We really enjoyed the truly fresh taste of the sea in these unusual creatures.

The Portuguese have created a word that describes a feeling of deep emotional nostalgia and melancholic longing for something or someone that one loves: Saudade.  We experienced this national saudade in their food, wine, music and friendship.  We understand the saudade in Portugal.  We also experienced "Obrigado". Much more than saying "Thank You", Obrigado means a gratitude, thankfulness, or appreciation as a feeling or attitude in acknowledgement of something one has or will receive. We received and gave Obrigada many times each day.


The Portuguese were some of the world's first real and true explorers and this map at the Monument to the Discoveries illustrates the travels of Portugal's great explorers and all the nations which were former Portuguese colonies - it was the first global Empire.


Today the Portuguese people experience a bit of that Saudade for their past worldly prominence by celebrating through architecture, their food and music.



Lisbon is a very exciting seaport city with a variety of distinct areas that highlight shopping, history, cosmopolitan living and exciting dining.


One of the things we enjoyed most was trying new foods.  After walking around the Alfama, Lisbon's oldest district, we popped in to a little hidden cafe called Canto da Villa.  The food was good but most memorable to me were these incredible grilled, salted peppers that are enjoyed as an appetizer.


Not hot, but with a little bite, these peppers are an addictive treat. I wish I could find out what variety of pepper they are.  For now, they will remain a wonderful memory.



Europe's beautiful churches and cathedrals are always a highlight and Portugal's did not disappoint. Particularly haunting was Carmo Convent.  It was destroyed in the great 1755 earthquake and only the walls remain.  There are still plaques on the wall to former worshipers and in honor of naval heroes and explorers.


A great way to finish a day in Lisbon is a visit to Pasteis de Belem, the creators of the Pastais de Nata (Portuguese Custard Tarts).  They are addictingly good; especially when sprinkled with powdered sugar and enjoyed sitting on a bench in the nearby park.


Our friends had rented a gorgeous contemporary home in the lovely village of Sintra.  During their year there, they became close friends with many local people and in fact, Mark is currently on a golf trip to England with some Portuguese buddies.



One really lovely part of village life are the local watering wells, where residents bring their water jugs and fill them with crystal clear, pure spring water. This still happens today.



Cafe da Natalia in Sintra was our friend's favorite local hangout. Mark would go there every day (sometimes more than once!) to delight in their Portuguese Salame - which is a log made from chocolate, butter, sugar and pieces of Maria cookies, cooked and sliced into pieces. The cut pieces resemble salami - hence the name salame. Four of us consumed almost all of the above dishes in one memorable breakfast...

Next:  The Moorish Castle, Castle Pena, Quinta da Regaleira, Ericeira,  Evora, Vila Nova da Gaia, Porto and the Duoro Valley.